Surfing with Blesma and Wellness Week - Bude, Oct '22

...one above the knee, one below the knee and an injured right arm.

I was lucky enough to be invited recently to try surfing for the first time since becoming an amputee.  I received an email from BLESMA saying they had a surfing and wellbeing week available.

I filled in the application and was accepted onto the course.  The criteria was to be able to swim with and without prosthetics on, and to be able to negotiate sand if using prosthetics.

I drove up from Plymouth on Sunday afternoon, which is about a 90-minute drive.

I could start to feel some anxiety building in my solar plexus, which is normal for me since my injury when travelling to do any activities.  I then have some negative thought patterns kick in and go through my mind.  All the worst-case scenarios go through my head as I’m driving.

So, I have learnt to coach myself, verbally out loud.  I challenge every negative thought and talk to myself as if I’m coaching a friend who might be having a bad day.  (It’s a good job I know I’m mad because anyone witnessing it would agree. Ha!)

It soon passes and I’m thinking of how great the week will be.

We all officially met at the Premier Inn, Bude on Sunday at 6pm and there were six of us injured in total.  The rooms were sorted out and we were given a brief for the week’s activities.

I was sharing a room with a triple amputee who had been surfing for ten years all over the world but had just recovered from a sports injury to his shoulder.

A typical activity day would be:

-Breakfast 7am

-Yoga/stretching/Pilates starting at 8:15 for about an hour.

-Meet at the beach huts by about 9:30.

-Breath work

-Morning surf

-Lunch at the beach huts

-Afternoon surf

It was a very relaxed vibe though.

Once at the beach huts, on the first day we met our instructors (1:1 coaching) who were all from the Bude Veterans Surf Club.  Most of these guys and girls are experienced surfers and also beach lifeguards.

My instructor was a guy called Steve who was ex-Army, we had a bit of banter from the start, so I knew it would be a great week.

The next activity was some breath work, similar to the Wim Hoff stuff.  It was really good and very relaxing, and we did this every morning.

 We were then allocated wetsuits and surf boards after a coffee.  I decided to start with my stubbie water activity legs on.  Steve gave me a brief and wanted feedback on my experience in the water.  Once we were both happy, we made our way down to the ocean.

Again, Steve gave me a demo for ‘getting out’ through the surf.  This was day one, so the emphasis was to just have fun.

Steve was pushing me through the oncoming waves which saved a lot of time and energy, but it still felt like a good pounding from the ocean, ha!

So, we got set up for the next wave, I was going to stay in the lying position but still had to time the wave right.  Steve would give me a ‘get ready’ and I would then paddle as fast as possible with my arms.

Luckily, I caught the first wave spot on, it was an amazing feeling with the power of the wave lifting you up and forward.  Really awesome.

I got in the cobra position, which is pushing your head and torso up off the board, so the board doesn’t nosedive into the wave. I managed to ride it back to shore, too easy. Ha!

We continued to do that for the rest of the morning, I definitely had beginners’ luck on the first one, as I took a few nose dives after that.  All good fun though with lots of instructors and safety helpers to hand.

That afternoon, we went a bit deeper (only chest deep) but the power of the waves was stronger from the changing tide. Getting out was a beasting, but again Steve was right on me and pushing me through.

I caught a few more awesome waves and before we knew it the day was done.

Day Two was a repeat of day one really.

I still had my stubbies on and it was apparent that they were holding me back from progressing.  Also lying on the board was becoming very uncomfortable.

On Day Three the weather was horrible, pouring with rain and very windy and typically, the surf looked the best it had been so far!

We all had lunch at the beach huts and decided to go for it.  I didn’t bother with the stubbies and just tied knots in the end of my wetsuit.  The guys got me the beach wheelchair and we made our way to the water.

We got out and set up for the first wave, I timed it right and was in a stable position, so I immediately popped up and sat upright on the board, it felt awesome.

Straight back out, I caught a wave but this time I popped up and got into a lunge splits position, arms out for balance… Awesome. 

By the end of the week, I had progressed from the lying position body boarding straight down the wave, to the splits lunge and making turns across the surf!

I was absolutely exhausted after just four full days of activities, but I didn’t really feel it until I stopped, as it was such an awesome and fun experience.

I was definitely out of my comfort zone at times, but that’s what helped me to progress to the next level.

I’d definitely recommend surfing to any person in rehab, I plan on doing it again soon!

Vince.